Welcome to Nicaragua. The land of lakes and volcanos.

“The Best of Nicaragua” is a place to learn, share, and explore all of the things which make up this fascinating Central American country. As with any country, Nicaragua is made up of many different things; some good, and others not so good…some things that you will like, and others that you will not…things you will love, and things you will hate.

We hope to present to you, our readers, a fair and balanced look at what Nicaragua is, and what it is not. Our content will cover nearly anything pertaining to Nicaragua, and we are depending on your input for topics which are important to you.

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Backpacking Adventures…San Miguelito

After an enjoyable time spent in the port city of San Carlos, we checked out of our room and headed for the bus station, to continue our backpacking journey North to the tiny, isolated village known as San Miguelito.

We had two options of bus travel to reach our destination: the express bus, or the ordinary, or in backpacker terminology, the “chicken bus”. The express bus is faster, but the ordinary is cheaper; so in the true spirit of the cheap traveler, we boarded “the chicken bus” for the long ride to the next stop on our backpacking adventure.

Now, as you have probably realized by this time, the “chicken bus” has earned it’s nickname because, in an area which relies almost solely on public transportation, people use the bus for everything.

And when I say everything, I mean just that… EVERYTHING. Riding one of these buses is an experience that I believe every backpacker can, and should experience during their time here in Nicaragua.

As for the town of San Miguelito; it’s just about what you might expect from a tiny, sleepy little fishing village on the lake…quiet. The main highway from Managua to San Carlos is about 6 miles away, and thus, there is very little traffic to support the economy. Your options to enter or leave town by land are limited to private vehicles, taxis, or walking the 6 miles to the bus stop on the highway. The only other option is the ferry, which makes two stops per day, and will eventually get you to your next destination.

We took a room at a classic style waterfront hotel called the “Cocibolca“, where for 12.00 USD per night, we were treated to a private room with screened windows and doors, and a ceiling fan. Showers and bathrooms were shared, and there was no WIFI, TV, or phone, but with all things being considered, still a good price for a clean quiet room.

Since the hotel offers neither food nor coffee, our first order of business was to find a restaurant in the area. After nearly an hour of wandering through the nearly deserted streets, we found a restaurant about six blocks from our hotel that matched our needs perfectly.

The bar and restaurant, Vega-Torres is a very nice small place with tables outside on a covered porch, and a bar and dining area inside. We ordered up a couple of ice-cold bottles of beer, and washed down some of the dust from our travels as we perused the menu.

In a fishing village the speciality is fish, and I ordered fresh-caught Guapote (Bass), and I can safely say that this was the best Bass that I have ever tasted, bar none. Served with sides of rice and fried plantain (tostones), and great coffee after the meal, it was a well deserved reward at the end of a very long day.

The following morning, we loaded our backpacks, and caught a taxi to the bus stop on the highway for the four hour bus ride to Managua. Our backpacking adventure was nearly over, and we had done many things, and seen many places that would not be possible any other way.

We had experienced some of the best of Nicaragua.

 

 

 

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Backpacking Adventures…San Carlos: Gateway To The Caribbean

My wife and I stepped off the boat in the fresh-water port town of San Carlos, Nicaragua,  along with the twenty or so prisoners we had picked up in Costa Rica, and were directed to the Customs and Immigration office to have our passports checked, and receive our entry visas. The prisoners had been in Costa Rica working on the pineapple plantations without documentation, and were deported back to Nicaragua. They were processed and released quickly, and by the following day, would again cross the frontier illegally, and be back at their jobs in Costa Rica, picking pineapples. Business as usual.

The customs officers were polite and efficient, and after paying $12.00 USD each, and receiving our visas, we were out on the streets of San Carlos.

Situated at the Southeast end of the Lake of Nicaragua, the town of San Carlos marks the beginning of the Rio San Juan, and the gateway to to the Caribbean. Established in 1527 by the Spanish, this fresh-water port has long been an important center of international trade, as well as an ideal jumping-off point for the Atlantic Ocean and beyond.

With a population of around 12,000 people, this small port is the last actual town on Nicaragua’s Rt 25, which leads South along the lake and then East toward the Caribbean coast. Plans are now underway to extend the highway Eastward, and to construct a bridge across the river to connect to Costa Rica, thus providing a third option for travel and commerce between the two countries.

Our first impression of San Carlos was a very positive one. The city is very clean and orderly, with a modern waterfront park, bordered by shops, stores, and restaurants on one side, and two lovely fishing piers on the other. Each has a kiosk at the  entrance, with coffee shops,restaurants, and even a bank in one, and are connected by a paved walkway running along the shore.

After getting a feel for the town, we shouldered our backpacks and began the search for an inexpensive place to spend the night. With a little help from the locals and a short walk, we located a rustic little hotel just three blocks from the park.

We checked into a clean safe, second floor room with free WIFI, a fan and a nice little porch to enjoy the evening. Despite not having a private bathroom or shower, the $13.00 USD per night for a private room was a good choice for our backpackers budget.

The following morning, we awoke feeling rested and refreshed, and had a good breakfast at one of the open air restaurants which border the park. The breakfast was very good, two fried eggs, fresh baked bread, and hot delicious coffee. The only thing better than the food was the price of just under $5.00 USD for the two of us.

San Carlos may be small, but it’s loaded with small businesses. Everything from clothing shops and bars, to fish vendors cleaning and selling their catches on the sidewalks are all within a short distance of the park.

There is also a market district stretching for nearly three blocks which sells fresh fruits, vegetables, and meats, and is much larger and well stocked than you would expect for a town of it’s size.

We spent the rest of the day eating, drinking and exploring this sweet little port city that seems to have been largely forgotten by tourists. As a backpacker though, I would recommend that anyone who is in Nicaragua makes it a point to spend a little time in this safe, laid-back little retreat. It may become one of your favorites; as it did mine.

While there is not much excitement in San Carlos, it could be a great little community for retirement. With it’s tropical climate, and low cost of living, I would be hard-pressed to find anywhere better to spend a calm quiet life, simply enjoying the beauty of the tropics.

 

 

 

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Worlds Deadliest Animals… Nicaragua’s Top Five Countdown

A close encounter with any one of Nicaragua’s Top Five  deadliest animals could ruin your whole day…or make it your own personal, ”end of days.”

  • #5   Bullet Ant 

Fifth place in our countdown goes to the one- inch long Bullet Ant, which despite it’s diminutive size, carries the most painful sting of any insect.

People who have had the misfortune to be stung by this little terror report that the pain can be compared to being shot by a bullet. The pain is instant, intense, and does not  fully subside for a  period of nearly 24 hours, and multiple stings can be fatal.

Found in the lowland tropical rain forests of the Atlantic coast of Nicaragua, these non-aggressive ants build their nests  under ground,  and only attack when threatened.

So when you are hiking through the rain forest, and looking up at the beautiful forest canopy, don’t forget to watch where you step, or you could end up as a permanent part of the forest floor.

  • #4   American Crocodile

Chomping it’s way into fourth place in our top five countdown is the American Crocodile, which at up to 15 feet long and 450 pounds in weight, is one bad boy that you don’t want to meet face to face.

Found along the Rio San Juan, and the Rio Frio in the South of Nicaragua, these large predators can be found basking in the sun along the low river banks.

Excellent ambush predators, the primitive-looking reptiles are seldom aggressive unless approached, but can, and will kill and eat humans if an opportunity presents it’s self.

American Crocodiles are officially listed as an Endangered Species, but be careful, because if you get too close to one of these, you may be the one who ends up being extinct.

  • #3  Bull Shark

Swimming straight out of your nightmares, and into the third spot in our countdown of deadliest animals is the Bull Shark. Coming in at 11 feet long and over 500 pounds, this is a real heavy-weight contender, with a mouthful of teeth and a bad attitude.

One of the the only species of shark which can live in both salt and fresh water, these apex predators are solitary hunters, and frequent shallow waters near shore, where a majority of their prey is found.

These aggressive sharks are probably responsible for the majority of shark attacks on humans world wide, and attack without provocation.

Bull Sharks can be encountered at any time day or night, but prefer to feed between the hours of dusk and dawn when their acute senses of smell and vibration give them the biggest advantage. A midnight swim under the silvery moon may just put you on the menu for this hungry man eater.

  •  #2  Tropical Rattlesnake

Slithering into second place in our countdown is the extremely dangerous Tropical Rattlesnake. Measuring up to 5 feet long, and possessing highly toxic venom, this irritable pit viper will strike with little or no warning.

Inhabiting sandy areas, plantations, and dry hillsides in the Western half of the country, this notorious killer is responsible for many bites and deaths in humans.

Their venom contains both neurotoxic and hemotoxic components, which paralyze the central nervous system, and cause massive tissue damage. Bites from these deadly snakes must be treated as soon as possible to avoid horrible tissue loss or death.

Most Tropical Rattlesnake bites occur in areas far from medical attention, and death is a very real possibility. Be careful where you step, or you too, could end up as another grizzly statistic is this reptiles long list of victims.

  •   #1  Fer De Lance

Number one in our countdown of Nicaragua’s deadliest animals is the Fer De Lance, known by many as the “ultimate pit viper”, and accounts for nearly 50 percent of all snakebites in the country.

Weighing up to 13 pounds, this large, aggressive snake occupies a wide range from the Atlantic lowlands to the Eastern shores of the Lake of Nicaragua, and is frequently found near human habitations.

Found near cultivated land and farms, this highly dangerous viper comes into contact with humans during it’s nightly hunt for rodents, which are it’s favorite prey. Humans attract rats, this snake eats rats, and thus, you have a perfect prescription for a confrontation, with a potentially deadly result. So if you awake in the still of the night, turn on the light before you step. Or you may be found in the morning…as cold and still as the night.

This completes our Countdown of Nicarugua’s Top Five Deadliest Animals. But remember, that all places on our planet harbor similar threats to life and limb, and your best defense is knowledge. Plan ahead and stay alert, and who knows? You just may be around long enough for another little adventure in tropical America

 

 

 

 

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Backpacking Adventures…Crossing The Frontier

As my wife and I stood in line at the dock in Los Chiles, Costa Rica, it began to rain. We crowded under the tiny tin roof along with the other twenty or so passengers, waiting for our turn to board the small launch which would take us down river, and back to Nicaragua.

Just as the captain gave permission to board, two white pickup trucks pulled up to the curb behind us labeled, “Costa Rica National Police”, and everything came to an abrupt halt. Each truck had a small ventilated cap covering the bed, which looked similar to those used by animal control units in south Florida, and was manned by three police officers in black tactical uniforms.

I turned to my wife and said, “I wonder that’s all about?” Her reply was, “they probably picked up a few illegal farm workers and are sending them back to Nicaragua.” “In those things?,” I said, “it has to be hot as hell in there. It makes me really glad that our papers are in order.”

At this point, the officers went to the rear of the first truck and unlocked the container doors. Sure enough, they did have prisoners inside the tiny, oven- like enclosures, but not the three or four that we had expected. When the doors swung open, eleven sweating, filthy young men nearly fell out into the street and were promptly escorted past us and into the waiting launch. The process was repeated with the second truck, and an additional eight prisoners were escorted to the boat. Finally, we were all permitted to board the now filled to maximum capacity launch, and began the hour and-half voyage down the Rio Frio, and across the frontier between Costa Rica and Nicaragua.

This leg of our back-packing adventure was the shortest, but by any standard, the most enjoyable off all. Our senses were filled with the sights, sounds and smells of the river, and the profusion of life that is tropical America.

The river was wide and smooth as it made it’s way Northward between shores covered by lush green tropical foliage, dotted here and there by bright red and yellow flowers.

Families of Howler monkeys peered curiously from the trees as our boat passed by, and vultures soared overhead. Along the river banks, Lilly pads floated like small green islands as White Egrets and Blue Herons waded among them, searching for fish and frogs to make up their evening meal. The smells of the river and it’s life were everywhere.

Gradually, the river widened as it opened into the great Lake of Nicaragua, at the mouth of the Rio San Juan, and all too soon we had crossed the short stretch of open water, and were landing at the fresh water port of San Carlos, Nicaragua. A short hour and one-half trip which had passed so quickly, but had left us so profoundly affected by the incredible diversity of life on our planet.

Our back- packing adventure had begun four days earlier, when we had crossed the frontier from Nicaragua to Costa Rica by bus at the town of Penas Blancas, and embarked on a short trip across the northernmost parts of Costa Rica. The next four days of our eight day journey would be spent heading North through the small towns along the East coast of the Lake of Nicaragua on our way home.

 

 

 

 

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Feeding The Children Of Nindiri…A Community In Action

Hunger is a reality in every country in our world. It is found everywhere from the poorest Third World countries to the largest and richest nations on earth. Hunger has neither geographical limitations, nor does it respect age, sex, race or religion. According to World Hunger.org, 1 in 7 people in the world go to bed hungry each night, and as our planet’s population continues to push upward past the 7 Billion mark, the numbers become appalling. UNICEF has stated that each day nearly 21,000 of our planet’s children aged 5 years or under die due to poverty, hunger and easily prevented diseases or illnesses.

The solutions to poverty and hunger are myriad, ranging from job creation to education of the masses, but all are enormous undertakings, requiring long periods of time and vast sums of money to realize. Unfortunately, the people who are hungry today do not have the luxury of waiting for a long-term solution. Their need is much more urgent. Their hunger cannot wait it for those solutions to take effect.

Nicaragua is currently the second poorest country in the Americas, with an average  daily income of $1.00 to $1.50 US Dollars per day. Here, the people  have a very intimate understanding of the problem of hunger, and how it affects their community. Local government, political parties, and individuals all have their own parties, lunches dinners and other events where anyone who is hungry is welcome to attend.

On December 4, 2011, the small town of Nindiri opened it’s heart and it’s kitchen when it hosted a free lunch for the hungry children in the community, and the response was nearly overwhelming.

Volunteers from the Mayors office, and family members began preparing food early in the morning for the 100 or so children expected show up for the meal.

Serving tables were set up, and plastic plates, cups and tableware were unwrapped and staged for easy access during serving. Dozens of fresh hamburger buns were stacked in their plastic bags in the outside kitchen, while huge pots of food simmered on the open wood fire.  As the lunch hour approached,every thing was ready, and by 11:30 am, there were 25 to 30 children waiting outside the front gate.

At 12:00 Noon, the number of children outside had swelled to nearly 100, and the gates were opened. Everyone was given a number, and put in line to be served in order as the lunch began.  Many of the children were accompanied by sisters, brothers and parents who were all served as well. It was then that things began to change as more people began to arrive…a lot more people.

Fortunately, the Mayor and her family had gotten a little carried away, and prepared far more food than they had actually planned on needing that day. As the number of hungry people continued to grow, it appeared that this apparent mistake had turned out to be a blessing in disguise.

By 3:00 that afternoon, nearly 250 hungry people had passed through the line. Men, women, children, and  a few homeless persons left with food in their stomachs and smiles on their faces. Everyone who came was fed, and no one was turned away. The only people who were left tired and hungry were the Mayor, her family, and all of the volunteers who had given so freely of their time and their love to make it all possible.

But the biggest smiles were on the faces of those special people that came together to take care of the other members of their community on that special day; but then I guess that’s what community spirit is all about.

 

 

 

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So You Want To Retire In Nicaragua ? part 1

In this first of a series of articles I will try to answer as many of your questions as possible about one of the most important decisions of your life…YOUR RETIREMENT.

According to the Social Security Administration, at the beginning of 2011 the average social security benefit for a retired worker in the US was $1,177.00 per month. Most retirement age Americans have seen their pensions, 401 k accounts and other forms of savings undergo drastic decreases in value over the past few years…for many their Social Security is all they have to show for a life time of work. Homes have been lost, whole sectors of employment have vanished forever from the American landscape, and full employment has been replaced with full underemployment.

For these and many other reasons, many Americans at or near retirement age have have been faced with the prospect of never being able to retire. Never to be able to enjoy those “G0lden Years” that were always so much a part of that beautiful concept we thought of as “The American Dream”. There is simply not enough money to retire any time in the forseeable future and have a lifestyle much above the poverty level, let alone enjoy all of the things they have worked so hard to achieve.

Due to these economic factors, increasing numbers of seniors are now deciding to retire and live overseas, where their limited income permits them a better lifestyle than in the U.S. Recently much media attention has been focused on Nicaragua as a cheap  retirement destination, and it actually may be the most affordable place to retire in Latin America.

Nicaragua is currently enjoying an upswing in in tourism as well as a rapidly growing number of expatriates from the United States and Canada.

With the tropical climate and low cost of living it’s not surprising that retirees are choosing to live in this friendly Central American country. Here they are able to enjoy many of the things that would never be possible on a fixed income such as Social Security anywhere else in the world.

So, if you are thinking of moving to ” The Land of Lakes and Volcanos”, I would advise you to read this series of articles which will help you make your decision. Life is not all ” sunshine and roses” and  neither is retiring in Nicaragua.

Part 2: Cost of Living……..Coming Soon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Nicaragua Travel: Four Tips For Handling Your Money

Whether you are backpacking, vacationing, or retiring it’s all important to make the most of your money. Here are four tips to help you enjoy your time in country and and keep more of that hard earned cash.

1. Banks are by far the safest and most secure places for money transactions with ATM’s located inside the bank. Couple this with the ever present armed guards who are there to protect the bank, as well as you and your money, you are  as safe as you can be anywhere.

Banks pay slightly lower than the exchange rate, but are your best choice for any type of money withdrawals or exchanges due to the high levels of safety and security which they offer.

2. Street money changers, “coyotes” in Spanish, are licensed by the government, and specialize only in changing US Dollars to to the local currency, the Cordoba. While less secure than banks, “coyotes” always offer a better exchange rate for your dollar.

However, as always, when dealing with cash transactions in public places… be aware of your surroundings at all times!

3. Businesses in all of Nicaragua are used to working in US Dollars, and are willing to accept your money for purchases. Select gas stations such as ESSO’s ..”On The Run” convenience stores have ATM’s inside the store, and accept US Dollars for all purchases, including fuel.

4. Always know the exchange rate for your currency, as values fluctuate daily. At the time of this writing the Cordoba is valued at 22.90 for each US Dollar. Current exchange rates are available online at many free sites.

Stay curious and travel well.

 

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Nicaragua Travel: Eating Good And Saving Money

If your vacation travel plans include a visit to Nicaragua’s impressive Volcan Masaya, you will come away with a desire for a good meal, a cold beer or a hot cup of freshly brewed coffee. For this, I would recommend a visit to a new restaurant in the nearby city of Masaya.

Located just across the street from Masaya’s central park, the” Cafe Du Parc” is a refreshing change of pace for the hungry traveler.

Cafe Du Parc

Specializing in American Style cuisine, this tastefully done little jewel offers a good selection at prices designed to keep more of your money in your pocket. With plenty of seating both inside and out, and a well stocked bar, this is a place to eat, drink, sit and watch the world go by.

The owner Mr. Hernan Amador is a native of Masaya who lived for many years in the U.S.  After earning his United States Citizenship, Mr Amador returned to Nicaragua and opened his “Cafe Du Parc” a little over one year ago. He is well spoken in both English and Spanish, and provides his guests with a pleasurable dining experience.

The “Cafe Du Parc” may be contacted at :  (505) 2522 – 0549.

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Nicaragua: Three Cool Islands That You Can See On A Budget

Located in the enormous fresh water Lake of Nicaragua, these three tropical beauties offer opportunities for travel and adventure at prices that won’t break the bank. All are easily reached by boat from the Spanish colonial city of Granada, and feature everything from pre-Colombian archaeological sites to a smoldering active volcano.

Perfectly suited to nature and adventure lovers, they attract backpackers and hikers from all over the planet. The accommodations are somewhat spartan, but the prices are cheap and the experience is priceless.

Isla De Ometepe

At over 100 square miles in area, this largest of the lakes islands was formed by two massive volcanoes which rose from the depths to form an hour glass shaped island surrounding their cones.

Ometepe is home to a large number of plant, animal and bird species, and Houses the Maderas National Park and the Ometepe Biological Station.

Things to do on Ometepe: hiking, sailing, swimming, fishing, biking and horseback riding.

Accommodations: Numerous hotels and restaurants available with rooms beginning as low as $8.00 per night.

Isla Zapatera

At 20  square miles, this nearly unspoiled extinct volcano has a small year round population and is the second largest island in the lake.

The island contains many indigenous Petroglyphs which may be accessed by tour, and numerous hiking trails. A great place for a super day trip from Granada!

Things to do on Zapatera: hiking, fishing, swimming,birdwatching.

Accommodations: Several small hotels with very basic services.

Solentiname Islands

The most tropical volcanic islands in the lake, this archipelago is covered in tropical vegetation, and home to many species of beautiful tropical birds.

This little known tropical get away is just becoming popular for it’s eco- turism, and is my personal pick for the best value for your vacation dollar.

Things  to do on Solantiname: swimming, local art shows, fishing, hiking, bird watching, boating.

Accommodations: Three hotels and plenty of good local food with fresh caught fish a speciality.

If you are looking for a tropical island vacation this winter, check out these three low cost alternatives for the money conscious traveller. Bring your backpack and don’t forget plenty of sunscreen!

 

 

 

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Plastic Currency…Latest News for Canada…Old News for Nicaragua.

Earlier this month, Canada announced the introduction of it’s new Polymer Currency. However, for those of us in Nicaragua, plastic is nothing new. Since the introduction of the first 10 Cordoba and 20 Cordoba bills in May of 2009, the new polymer is rapidly replacing the old paper currency.

Designed with multiple security features, such as holograms to help stop counterfeiters, these new bills also promise longer usable circulation time in the humid climate common in much of central America.

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Nindiri: A small town renaissance in the making.

Driving south from Managua you will find the historic pueblo of Nindiri. One of the oldest settlements in the region, this small town has begun a long overdue renovation. Since the new administration took office in 2008, the city has seen an increase in employment as well as major improvements in infrastructure.

The central park has undergone a total makeover, complete with a security guard, and now surpasses any park in the area. Several blocks from from the park, a new  commercial trade center is set to open at the end of this month.

Nindiri: Not in the guide books…..but NOT to be missed.

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